HenspaTM will be delivered in a Tractor trailer. It is shipped on a pallet,
and weighs about 400lb. crated. To unload it, you must have a shipping
dock, a forklift, or one or two people available. Cut the strapping and
remove the outer crate.Unload the sections individually. The heaviest part (the upstairs
box with roosts, nests and roof) is 150 lb., and can be lifted by two
people. You can lighten it even more by opening it and removing some of
the items packed inside. If you are the only one available to unload, the
truck driver might be convinced to help, but this should be discussed
before the truck arrives. The shipping company will call you in advance to
arrange a delivery time when you can be available to unload.
without the sunroom attached is 8' long, 44" wide (including wheel assembly) and 48'' high. It will fit in the bed of a
standard F150 pickup truck. We frequently carry our demo HenspaTM to shows this way. Just
strap it down well. You can see all dimension for
all coops by clicking here.
My primary reason for not raising chickens is that we have a really nice
house and a really nice barn and I do not want to "junk" up our property to
raise a few chickens. How will the HenspaTM look on my estate?
HenspaTM and HenhavenTM are designed for nice farms and properties.
We have made every effort to make the HenspaTM attractive as well as durable and functional.
We hope that rural bed and breakfast sites will install them to provide better breakfasts
(fresh eggs!) and an attraction for young guests. Our goal is to provide chicken housing
that will be aesthetically pleasing on any estate.
HenhutTMis a more economical model and as such
is not as
attractive to the eye.
in the North requires a little planning. There are several different considerations to
"winterize" your HenspaTM and assure healthy hens and fresh eggs throughout the
Water: The ice-free
waterer shipped with every HenspaTM is a dream come true. The HenhavenTM waterer requires more attention. Buy a spare, and you can keep one in the
house that is warm. Exchange waterers twice a day in very cold
Shelter: Henspas and
Henhavens need to
be sheltered during the snowy months. A shed, garage or lean-to that would keep the snow
off would work. Another great option is a greenhouse. With a greenhouse, the hens could
even be allowed to run "free" and just roost and lay in the HenspaTM.
Litter: Put the HenspaTM or HenhavenTM on a pile of shavings and
add more shavings as needed. You'll have some nice compost by Spring. Make sure there are
several inches of shavings upstairs also. Don't clean it out until the weather begins to
warm up again or it just gets too high. The composting action will help them stay warm. It
shouldn't stink if you have enough shavings.
For the ultimate compost machine take a
look at the Foodspa.
Light and heat: Adding light will increase the
production of eggs. The hens should have 10-14 hours of light a day to keep up production.
We offer a timer and a light as accessories. You can increase the wattage, using a heat
lamp to add heat also. However, good cold-tolerant hens should do fine without extra heat.
They generate enough body heat upstairs to keep them warm. Make sure there are no drafts
downstairs. Wind will chill them more than cold alone.
Breed: Certain breeds are more cold-tolerant than
others. Buff Orphington, a heavy breed and a good layer, are known to do well in extreme
cold. Ask your hatchery what they recommend for your area.
have been reports of an animals getting at chickens in a HenspaTM. This has
not happened often. It is important to keep a
new flock upstairs exclusively for 3-4 days. You will have to improvise
feed an water for them. This will get them into the habit of
sleeping upstairs and you won't have them forgetting to go upstairs at
night. If they stay downstairs at night they will become attractive
targets of predators. See more info at Dog Tested.
It is impossible to guarantee that your
chickens will never be attacked, but the overall safety record of our
units is very good.
only use the heat lamp when it gets below say 10-12 degrees. In fact, chickens stand
the cold quite well. If you have lots of shavings in the upstairs and you see to it that
the hens are not exposed to chilling winds, they will get along fine. I keep a piece of
plywood handy and place it on the upwind side of the HenspaTM. Alternatively, you can place
the HenspaTM in a barn or next to a building that protects it from the wind. Sometimes, in
extreme weather their combs and waddles will freeze. Its not pretty, but it happens.
you will leave the HenspaTM or HenhavenTM in one spot during bad weather. Putting 3-5 inches of shaving on
the ground will keep their feet from getting too cold. If you are really concerned that
the chickens are getting too cold, you could put a tarp under the roof of the HenspaTM. This
will have the effect of keeping their body heat from leaving the building. Don't worry
about the exit hole to downstairs.
In very cold weather, your egg production will decrease. This is normal as the hens are
do the hens handle the heat in the South?
The hens pant all day when it is in
the upper 90's, and cool down at night. The upstairs gets pretty hot (we've had it up to
110 degrees), but with the egg access door open, a breeze keeps things manageable. The
vented roof of also helps. They only go upstairs during the day to lay, and then they go
back down again where it is open and shaded.
Ask for it when you purchase a HenspaTM and we will ship
you an inexpensive
"mister" that goes on the end of a water hose and keeps hens
really happy in hot weather. It is only recommended for really hot
How does the HenspaTM handle very windy conditions?
We've had our HenspaTM in winds up to about 50mph
without problems. In higher gusts, with the tall side being hit broadside, it has tipped.
When we put it back up and turned it so that one of the ends was facing into the wind, we
didn't have any more problems. The most important thing is that the roof now
previous models, when the roof was hinged, it blew off. The sliding roof can
not blow off.
have heard that you can add diatomaceous earth to the diet of chickens
and cut down on the odor in a small pen. Is this true?
I don't know. I do
know that a stationary pen creates a buildup of odor, unless fresh litter
is added continuously. A pen that moves
everyday significantly reduces the buildup.
The HenspaTM and the Hen HavenTM have floors that breathe.
The floors consist of a combination of wire and a tarp that is woven in
such a way that it allows air to pass through. The benefit of this
construction is that the chicken droppings dry quite rapidly. The lack of
moisture restrains decay and odor. I only shake off my tarp about once
every 3 months. It stays dry and inoffensive nearly all of the time.
The only time I encounter odor is during several (7-10)
days of very high humidity or constant rain. I could solve even that
problem by shaking the tarp more often, but the degree of offense has
never increased to the point of motivating me to clean the coop. A more
sensitive individual may have cleaned their coop once a month instead of
once every 3 months.